Q: How can I view the status of my order?
Go to the Customer Service, Account Information page. This page lists all your orders. Click the date of the order whose status you wish to view.
Q: What are your shipping costs?
You can view an estimate of shipping costs by viewing your cart. However, final shipping costs will be displayed on the invoice you see before confirming your order.
Q: Which is better, aluminum or wood frames?
The advantages of aluminum screen printing frames are the durability and longevity it retains. Unlike wood silk screen printing frames, when exposing frames to solvent and water in a tank or washout sink aluminum frames will never warp. This will insure a flat frame through thousands of prints. Aluminum frames can also be stretched and re-stretched many times. The mesh and glue are simply removed from the frame using a professional tool that doesn’t damage the aluminum. Once cleaned, the frames can then be re-stretched which will give you the ability to use that frame for years in your shop.
Aluminum frames are also lighter weight than wood frames, which makes shipping less expensive and saves you money in the long run. If you're looking to maximize performance in your shop, aluminum frames are a great item to add to your screen printing equipment.
Q: How I choose the right mesh count?
A lower number means a coarser mesh count, a higher number means a finer mesh count. Selecting the correct mesh can be a frustrating process. Use the following information as a general guideline for mesh selection.
- 60 Mesh - A Course mesh count for use with Glitter Inks.
- 86/90 Mesh - Recommended for printing opaque white/light colours onto dark fabric to allow maximum opacity.
- 110 Mesh - Recommended for general textile work, printing light on dark, dark on light.
- 125/160 Mesh - Recommended for general textile work but with some finer detail/line work.
- 180/200 Mesh - Textiles; smooth and light fabric, Half-Tone, General.
- 230/250 Mesh - Textiles; extremely light material, Graphics, General.
- 305/355 Mesh - Process work.
Q: What caused the screen mesh slip/rip off from the frame?
- Printing too close the inner edge can push the mesh off the frame. Make sure you have sufficient clearance around your press image and use the right size squeegee.
- Off contact (Snap off) adjustment – it’s an air gap between the bottom of the screen (print side) and the top of the item you are printing. Make sure the air gap is not too big. Otherwise, the squeegee will push the mesh down to far.
- Chemical interaction with the screen/frame interface. Keep inks and strong solvents such as acetone, MEK, lacquer thinner etc away from the frame. Haze removers can also remove the mesh, so use sparingly. Solvents such as mineral spirits, VF Ink Wash and water and standard emulsion removers will not affect our screens.
Q: Does new screen need to be cleaned before emulsion coating?
We recommend cleaning screens with degreaser before emulsion coating. This helps remove all dirt, grease or contamination if any left on mesh from the manufacturing process.
Q: What method rapid tensioning, stage tensioning do you employ on your screens?
Rapid Tensioning is the most common method used to achieve a stretched screen printing frame. Rapid Tensioning results in the fabric beginning to stabilize immediately, and level off below the recommended tension level. Thus resulting in tension loss and improper tension levels. This technique is used by most screen makers. Stage Tensioning, however, is very time consuming because of the series of stretch and relaxation, which allows the fabric to stabilize without damaging the mesh characteristics. This process allows us to achieve higher tension levels with the use of low elongation fabrics.